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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.